Understanding sake categories
1. The problem of “polishing”…
The Japanese term seimaibuai (精米歩合) is regularly translated (especially by automatic translators) as “polishing” in French. This is a huge misinterpretation, to the extent that in French the rate of polishing expresses what has been removed, while the Japanese term seimaibuai Express the remaining percentage grain of rice! Thus, for a sake with a seimabuai of 40%, we express that we have polished 60% and that 40% of the rice grain remains.
For the sake of consistency and pedagogy, we have decided to keep the term seimaibuai (which we will no longer write in italics), since it is an essential notion in the world of sake, with which every amateur should familiarize themselves as soon as possible.
2. “Junmai” sake ( junmai-shu )
The name “Junmai” means “pure rice”, meaning that the production of sake only used the 4 basic ingredients: rice, water, koji-kin, yeast .
Until 2004, the appellation required a seimaibuai of less than 70%, which is why we still find this criterion on certain sites or in certain works devoted to sake. Since 2004, seimaibuai is no longer a relevant criterion and any sake strictly made from the 4 basic ingredients can claim the name “Junmai”.
3. “Ginjo” and “Daiginjo” sakes
It is in these categories that seimaibuai directly intervenes: less than 60% for “Ginjo” sakes and less than 50% for “Daiginjo” sakes. To understand the value of seimaibuai, you need to know that we are talking about polished grains of rice whole : the more we polish the grain of rice, the more likely it is to break, which is why obtaining a high polishing (and therefore a seimaibuai lower than 50%, or even much less) represents a challenge for brewers! Fortunately, they have two precious allies on their side: technology and genetics. Technology has made it possible to obtain gentler polishing, which can go so far as to leave only 10% of the rice grain, and genetics has enabled the development of rice varieties more resistant to polishing (Yamadanishiki rice or its descendant the Sakahomare rice, for example).
Since the “Ginjo” and “Daiginjo” criteria refer to seimabuai and the “Junmai” criterion to the ingredients, we therefore find weak seimaibuai sakes made from the 4 basic ingredients and bearing the names “Junmai Ginjo” and “Junmai”. Daiginjo.”
4. “Honjozo” sakes
These sakes are made from the 4 basic ingredients, to which the brewer adds a certain quantity of brewing alcohol in order to round out the aromas and taste. This results in sakes that are easy to drink and very good candidates for heated sake tasting.
5. “Special methods”
We find the words “ Tokubetsu ” in front of certain “Junmai” and “Honjozo” sakes. What does it mean?
“Tokubetsu Junmai” and “Tokubetsu Honjozo” sake must have a seimabuai of 60% or to have been manufactured with “a special method”. And since that's all that is said... each brewer is free to interpret it in their own way and decide that their method is "special"! This may be the use of tools or containers that deviate from traditional utensils, a particular way of making sake at any stage, a particular type of ingredient, etc.
If the mention “Tokubetsu” does not provide information on the taste, it nevertheless arouses curiosity and invites everyone to learn more about the product in question.